Ever since the 1997 C5 people have complained about shift issues or clutch pedal sticking on the floor when shifting at high RPMs.

Here is one part on how to make shifts better and help prevent sticking pedal

1. Adjust seat position so that leg extended is easy for you.
2. Drill and tap the pad on side of pedal leg that was hitting the clutch override start switch.

3. I made the stop out of parts lying around and then used a locking nut on backside.

4. Screw bolt into your tapped hole.

5. With rear tires jacked up off the ground leave trannie in gear.
As stepping on clutch pedal try and turn left rear tire.
Being I did this myself I used a rope on a spoke of wheel which allowed me to step on clutch pedal and yank on rope till wheel turned.

6. Once I got the pedal height where I wanted it then adjust your stop and lock in with locking nut.

NOTE: once you have tires turning at a set pedal height make the stop about 1/4 inch shorter to assure clutch is fully dis-engaged

Test with car still jacked up and front tires blocked off with engine running and test shifting. Assure engine starts as stop hitting the override start switch

Go for a test drive and get used to the shorter leg effort.
Shifts now are much better and pedal returns much quicker.

I have used clutch stops on all cars I have raced so this is nothing new.

COST: ZERO so it beats the $75 costs some of these moron cyberspace vendors charge

That is a great solution to my problem. When I am autocrossing or doing HPDE's I often get an adrenalin rush and send the pedal to the floor. Often it causes a misshift.

This is a easy mod to install and for whatever reason the owner does not like it would take like 1 minute to take off and be stock again.

As mentioned in another post I tested taking that spring (shown at top of image) off the clutch pedal and I suggest not taking it off and so does GM since they have a bulletin warning of taking it off.

I had trouble getting a good angle to match the Clutch switch as the pedal swings in on an angle.
I bought a 1/4 20 elevator bolt which had a large flat head and determined the angle needed to address the clutch and swith housing square on.
I did not tap the hole and drilled a 1/4 inch hole on this angle such that the large flat head hit the switch sqaure on.
I added two nuts one on each side and used a long 2X2 peice of wood to determine the disatance needed. I marked the 2X2 at full travel then at clutch engagement and set the elevator bolt to that dimension and jammed the nuts down.
After a short test drive i shorten the bolt another 1/8 inch to get a little easier clutch engagement. I need to practice and relearn when and how to shift as my arm and leg were used to the long swing to engage the clutch. But it definately solved the overtravel issuewith the Hydraulic Clutch. Thanks for the inputs JR

That angle goes away the closer the clutch leg gets to override switch

I welded a small piece of flat metal to end of a bolt so that piece fit the width of switch and at the right angle.
It is important to adjust seat distance before doing a final tweak of stop length

Testing and adjusting is needed.
I did some testing today and needed to adjust stop just a tad shorter for shifting is fine at low speeds but at high RPMs the pressure plate has some centrifugal force and stop needed to be just a bit shorter to assure good shifting at high engine loads.