I have a reoccuring problem with my 92's driverside front caliper. The C- clip and the caliper pin keep coming up missing. first i thought the clip is coming off and the pin works its way out, but these are new clips that came with the new pads 2 mos ago. can anyone think of why this would keep happening. i haven't been that hard on the brakes for long periods of time either.

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Clarence 92 Blk/Red Coupe
open air lid - TB bypass - 160 stat - Ported LT1 Intake - SuperChip Eprom - Headman headers - no resonator - no mufflers - no cats - 3.54 Rear

Clav, how many miles are on the caliper? I presume that you have the J55 brake set up? If for some reason you don't, make sure that you have the correct pin. Some of the replacement pins have two grooves to allow them to be used in both the standard and J55 setup. Another possibility, without having the benefit of actually seeing the caliper is the wear factor. If for some reason the aluminum housing on the caliper is worn or in some way out of spec, that could create some slop and allow for some travel that could put some weird stress on that "E" clip. Re-check (again) your installation, and let us know wht you find.

we its got about 70,000 miles on it. looking at it again it seems like the little "fangs" that the pin uses to hold things shut may be slightly worn. time for a new caliper i think.

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Clarence 92 Blk/Red Coupe
open air lid - TB bypass - 160 stat - Ported LT1 Intake - SuperChip Eprom - Headman headers - no resonator - no mufflers - no cats - 3.54 Rear

I hear the 96 GS calipers are the hot ticket. try Tom Henry chevy, he gives really good deals to us vette guys.

I'm thinking of going to them too just to freshen up the binders on the 90 ZR1. Not worth the effort to rebuild them IMHO.

the GS calipers look great, and are slightly stiffer according to what I have read.

Anybody know the hot tip on affordable rotors??? going to do them at the same time, thinking about delco power stop or maybe even the Baer if I can get them reasonable.

Ron, from slight research I think the GM Durastops are the best bang for the buck. To move up the food chain above a basic steel rotor you have to go to the two-piece aluminum hat jobs which are something like $300 each and really intended for severe (track) use on a highly modified vehicle.

Most of the cross-drilled and slotted stuff out there, and I'm now speaking one-piece rotors, are just for show and will probably fail sooner than the GM stuff under light to moderate racing conditions.

Rgds,
Mark
'92 ZR-1 #032