I looked at the original one taken out in 2006 and it is bad. You can move the clutch pedal rod in and out without opening the spring loaded fitting, the new one will not budge. This means it is not building any pressure.

Or when the hose was taken apart that seal/stop did not close all the way ?
Or when taken off and all fluid was taken out it needs to be bleed again ?
If you take the rod off the pedal with present master does it also have no pressure ?

The one that is in it now also has no pressure with the pedal removed. I can easily press it in with my hands.

The original still has fluid in it, since it is a closed system I never removed the fluid.

Once I remove the quick connect I will be able to remove the one in it. I just had to come in from the heat for a break.

I wonder if forcing the pedal up when the slave is stuck would cause the cylinder to fail?

Take the old one and check at the bottom and see if the O ring and bleeder is OK
Maybe valve comes apart and you can find what is wrong with old one and fix it and then know went wrong with the master that has been in last couple of years

Will do. I just finished replacing it and the new one operates fine.

I first tried to bleed the old one with no luck. I then took all of the hoses apart and the plunger appeared to be cocked sideways. After fixing that and bleeding, it seems to be working.

I'll box up the untouched replacement and send it.

The one I tore apart had the fluid changed within a few days of failing. So I completely agree that changing the fluid is definitely not the cure.

BTW be careful when removing the spring loaded quick connect fitting. I was lucky to find all of the pieces when it went flying across the garage.

Good work Brett,

When I get your other bad one I will see if it also has the same and if if so why ?

At least you know how to correct the problem rather then having to spend another $100 for the 4th master.

I suspect release bearing had jammed, up and down on pedal but since bearing could not return back the fluid in the slave could not push the fluid back into the master and caused some issue to be found later as plunger is a unuseable state.

Yes without a doubt the condition of brake fluid does not cause this problem where pedal never returns and when it problem occurs but then corrects itself.

I'll do images and writeup once I get your's and fully analyze it.

At this point we now have a cure for the problem you had and how to correct it without buying another master.

Is it possible that the self adjusting mechanism of the clutch causes problems that people assume are due to damaged hydraulics or old fluid?

From time to time my clutch pedal felt really strange: while pushing and also releasing it. The clutch was releasing fine, just the pedal movement was slowed down by something.

I pressure bleeded the system several times without results, replaced the master and the slave but the problem was still there.

All of a sudden, after a spirited trip on our mountais the problem desappeared. The only thing I know that changes automatically is the position of the ring inside of the pressure plate that adjusts the clutch for wear.

I can imagine that if the spring fingers arent in the correct position the whole system isn't working properly.

The brake fluid is falsely blamed from trannie not shifting to engine performance. It is the biggest myth that exists and to this day people are half ass changing part of the fluid and thinking they are preventing problems

This thread proves as issues to the Corvette design that there is both slave and master issues that have zero to do with brake fluid.

The self adjuster would effect if cutch is slipping but it would not cause the other problems to master and slave.

I assume of one of the 3 adjusters was stuck then disc would not have even clamping but that would again not effect slave functioning.

If for any reason the disc got overheated and slipped like if low speed and then spinning the tires then it might take some time for disc to get cleaned off and grap properly again.

The design of slave is different with your Camaro as the vette due to the trannie in ass end and the drivetube

I agree if the arms of pressure plate were faulty that uneven pressure would be put on throwout bearing and effect if it cocks on a angle and does not slide correctly

GM has had to post another TSB due to people getting sucked into opening the cluch fluid tank causing the brake fluid to get contaminated with water

07-07-31-001A: Clutch Hydraulic System - New Service/Owner Maintenance Information - (Sep 11, 2008)


Subject: Clutch Hydraulic System -- New Service/Owner Maintenance Information


Models: 2005-2009 Chevrolet Corvette (Including Z06 and ZR1) with Tremec 6-Speed Manual Transmission (RPOs MM6, MZ6, MH3)

This bulletin is being revised to update the models to 2009. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 07-07-31-001 (Section 07 -- Transmission).

This bulletin is being issued to provide dealers with additional information on servicing the clutch hydraulic system.

Please also advise customers of this new maintenance information.

Some cases have been found where the vehicle's clutch hydraulic system was contaminated with water.
Higher than expected levels of water in the clutch fluid greater than 2% may cause the clutch fluid to boil.
The presence of water in the fluid lowers the boiling point significantly; when this occurs, the driver may lose customary clutch pedal feel and performance.

To eliminate the opportunity for moisture to enter the clutch hydraulic system:

• The clutch fluid level inspection should be a VISUAL inspection only. Look through the transparent reservoir and observe the fluid level.

Avoid removing the cap !

DO NOT remove the cap just to top-off clutch fluid. Leave the system closed and sealed.

During PDI inspection or routine service, the cap should not be opened for just an inspection.

• Open containers of DOT 4 clutch fluid have a two week shelf life.
DO NOT use fluid if the container opening date is unknown or older than two weeks. DO NOT mix or re-use old fluid. Current service information already covers the issue of reuse.

• To provide the best clutch operation, it is recommended that the owner change the clutch fluid every two years.

Please flush and replace with P/N 88958860 (P/N 88901244 in Canada) or equivalent DOT 4.