Better launches by:

1. remove 1 bolt from from front sway bar, betters weight shift to rear tires
from front.

2. About 25 cold air lbs on rears, 40 lbs on fronts ( when using stock tires)

3. Front shocks set light, rears to stiff, helps weight transfer over rear
tires. In the case of a Penski
race shock, set compression ( to soft ) and rebound about all the way open
( about 13 sweeps)
but because of right rear having less weight go 12 sweeps on right rear, 13
on left rear.

4.On stock Corvette, right rear has the least weight, thus on launch, car will
want to snake sideways,
add weight ( even a a sand bag would do ) in hatch to bring balance to both
rear tires.

5. If rear end is too light, better with full tank or gas ( and spare tire if
it has one ) for launch

6. Lot's of RPMs is launch, works much better if matching the drivetrain,
thus for a C5 or ZR-1
best of about 1,600 RPMs off the line. Those 3,000 RPMs look cool, but I
beat those types
all the time.

7. Pre torque the drivetrain, for a manual trannie, pin the buttom for
emergencybrake handle so the
handle will not latch. While waiting for 2nd yellow on tree, hold brake
handle, bring RPM to
your launch RPM. Brake handle will hold car from rolling but turques up
drivetrain ( like auto
trannie with a good torque converter)
When I see the 2nd yellow, begin to feather G-pedal while just letting brake
handle go, time it releases,
tires have already begun to roll. Nice launch !

8. Constant shifts at right RPM, so for the Rebel, I'll shift every time at
5,800, for the time I do the shift,
engine will be at 6,000 RPMs. Best get a shift light set to the RPMs you
want to shift at and do what
it says.

9. The less shifts, the less lose, meaning if you can hit the speed trap in 3rd
gear, do it, using 4th may cost you
about 3 tenths for engine to catch back up.

10. Topend is not at the finish line, but passed it, so if wanting true topend,
do not lift, drive through finish line.

A 2.0 or under 60 foot time on street tires, means, your a real man and good
Dragger.... :-))

If you got the power, then the rear tires need the downward force to maintain
the most tire patch.
Using an empty gas tank might clearly be a negative.

------------------


Team ZR-1
Teamzr1.com

Two questions:
When you say One bolt from the sway bar, I assume you are referring to one from each side?
AND.....I have a Heads & Cam, etc. 99 coupe with a Pro Torque 2400. I usually launch from my 850rpm idle.....any suggestions? I am running ET streets, no spin, 12.23 @ 114.

Thanks,

Marc

I wanto to try a line lock for hold the car. my brake button is kinda sticky and the line lock would help with burn outs without heating up the brakes. a brake proportioning valve might be a good idea too.

I have seen folks grenade a parking brake on drum shoe cars doing this trick, not sure this could happen on a vette, probably not.

good tips!!! I have had fits getting consistent 60 foot times, I need more practice.

Marc keep in mind when one end of a sway bar goes one direction, the other end goes the other way, thus by freeing one side, the bar no longer functions and allows more lift on front end which shifts more weight onto rear tires for better traction.

Due to C5's stiff frame, on launch there is no give in frame to help set more weight onto rear tires, best if you have adjustable shocks ( I use Penske) and set the rears softest and front soft bit not as soft as rears which will help move the weight over the tires as rear end now swats down.

I have been using the brake handle on several Corvettes over the years at drag strips and never have had a problem. My '94 ZR-1 with stock GSC tires would get 1.9 60 foot times in general, bit better with drag radials.

I would look at why button is sticking and correct that.
I have never used a line lock to know if it is worth the hassle installing one.

Which would be better for launching an A4 C5: slight rpms above idle or mashing the brakes and pressing the gas until the car starts to creep? I have heard many say that each way is the best

Keith